A ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) is a device that shuts off an electric power circuit when it detects that current is flowing along an unintended path, such as through water or a person. Under normal conditions the current returning to the power supply in a 2 wire circuit will be equal to the current leaving the power supply. More information can be found here: http://ecmweb.com/basics/how-gfcis-work

The National Electrical Codes requires GFCI protection for any outlet in the following areas.

• Kitchen counter tops
• Bathrooms
• Garages
• Crawl spaces
• Exterior receptacles
• Unfinished basements
• Boat house
• Any receptacle within 6 ft of a sink

An Arc Fault Circuit Interrupter (AFCI) is a type of duplex receptacle or circuit breaker that breaks the circuit when it detects a dangerous electrical arc in order to prevent electrical fires. A normal breaker will often not trip from an arc since the current generated does not exceed the amp rating of the breaker. Arc fault breakers are designed to arcing conditions.

An Arc Fault Circuit Interrupter (AFCI) is a type of duplex receptacle or circuit breaker that breaks the circuit when it detects a dangerous electrical arc in order to prevent electrical fires. A normal breaker will often not trip from an arc since the current generated does not exceed the amp rating of the breaker. Arc fault breakers are designed to arcing conditions.

More information – http://www.afcisafety.org/qa.html

More information – http://ecmweb.com/content/basics-arc-fault-protection

Currently in Tennessee, all devices in bedrooms are required to have arc fault protection.

1. An intermittent chirp is probably an indication of a defective smoke detector.
2. A consistent chirp is probably an indication of a low battery condition and the smoke detector requires a new battery.

1. Low voltage rating of bulbs. Bulbs are typically rated for either 120 volts or 130 volts, bulbs rated at 120 volt will burn out more often due to power surges.

2. Larger wattage bulbs, which cause excessive heat build-up shorting the life of the bulb.

3. Power Surges.

4. Excessive vibration. Incandescent fixtures have a thin filament in the bulb and excessive vibration can shorten the life of the filament.

5. High voltage in the home. Homes are supposed to receive 120/240 volts from utility company, but this is not always the case. It is not uncommon for a home to receive 125/250 volts from utility company which will result in a shorter lifespan for bulbs.

You most likely have a bulb installed that is larger than the rating of the can. Modern Recess Cans are rated for a maximum wattage bulb and are equipped with a thermal device that does not allow a bulb larger than that rating. If a larger wattage bulb is used, as the excess heat builds up, the thermal device will shut the can off until it cools. This is a safety device to protect your home against fire.

Also, there may be insulation packed around the recessed light– not letting the heat dissipate and in return tripping the thermal device. After the recessed light cools down, it will cycle back on.

Yes. This is a common occurrence when large motor/compressor loads start. These devices cause a minor momentary voltage drop, demonstrating itself as the blinking in your lights. This has no negative effect on the electrical equipment within your house.

Flickering may indicate impending bulb failure, minor power fluctuation, and/or improperly installed bulbs. Cycling on and off is usually a clear indication of ballast and/or bulb failure. It is recommended when replacing a ballast to replace bulbs as well.

According to the NEC [National Electrical Code], it is now required to isolate the neutral conductor from the appliance frame or chassis. It used to be allowable to use the neutral as a grounding means by incorporating a link between the neutral and the chassis. The problem with this is that, should the neutral become “open” at some point, the chassis or frame then becomes energized! The answer to this safety issue was to require a separate grounding conductor in the cable feeding the appliance. The NEC allows the replacement of the new four prong cord with a three prong cord for appliance replacements in existing installations only! It is then required, when the cord is thusly replaced, to establish the frame grounding link from the chassis to the neutral.

This is the metal plate on the front of the switch. This heat in turn is transferred to the switch cover plate. In most cases, it is not noticeable when the dimmer switch is driving a single bulb or a load of 100 watts or so. The heat does become more noticeable when the wattage of the load gets above 300. Underwriter’s Laboratory (U.L.) allows a maximum operation temperature of 195°F for dimmer switches. But the average dimmer operates much lower, at approximately 140°F.

Most dimmers are rated for 600 watts. However, dimmers come equipped with removable tabs on the side, that if removed lower the wattage rating of the dimmer to typically 500 watts if one side is removed, and 400 watts if both sides are removed.

If your dimmer is hot to the touch the load on the dimmer may be exceeding the wattage rating of the dimmer. As a test you can count the number of bulbs on the dimmer and multiply this by the wattage of the light bulbs if it exceeds 400 watts then the load may be exceeding the capacity of the dimmer and you will need to verify the rating of the dimmer.